Cam Chain Tensioners
- Harley-Davidson |
- Electra Glide |
- 2001 |
- Cams |
- Stalling
I must ride a freak of a Harley. I have 61K on my 01 Elektera Glide and I finally have to address the cam chain problem for the first time. On a different note. Can the Cam Chain Tension problem cause the bike to totally cut off (as in like it runs out of gas) at very high RPM like 90 mph? I have spoken to several HD techs and 1 said yes but the others said no. The explanation he gave me made sense but I'd like another opinion.
FYI, just changed fuel filter and Spark plugs but that did not help at all.
Thanks,
Tony Davis
Comments
Without the bike in my hand
Without the bike in my hand I'm not sure what you have done to the bike etc... on some (quite a few) I had problems with the CPK Crank Position Sensor being the problem. Then there was the ECM issue on some. Or it could be a hole in the fuel line inside of tank. Most of the areas above happen at most any speed. Do you have custom spark wires? The metal ones. Have you checked the spark plugs see how they are burning? Is the fuel pressure 55-60 psi? have you checked the injectors and the wires they have been known to break and cause problems like you have. Are there any engine codes? Are you running an after market power commander they have been known to break down. I am assuming your bike is an EFI. If it's a carbureted bike then you need to be looking at the float and needles and the fuel line between the engines. As you can see there are a list of things to be looking at. The Cam chain adjusters put pressure on the chains if they are bad you will be hearing a unusual noise coming from the cover any good tech will hear it. As to it being the problem of the engine starvation I'll say no.
Tony, you were fortunate to
Tony, you were fortunate to get 61K out of a set of tensioners, they can let go from 4K to 80K. I might suggest that you have someone check your rear swing arm. Pre 02 FLH's have a hollow tube with a 3/4" axle that goes through the hollow tube. Check the washer at the axle. If it is not flat your swing arm is flexing. My swing arm cracked clear through about 1" in front of the axle on the left side. The 02 FLH's have re-designed swing arms to prevent the flexing which eventually results in metal fatigue. Fortunately the dealer noticed the craked swing arm otherwise I might not be here to send you this message.
I might suggest that you tell ALL of your buddies that ride pre-02 FLH's. Harley-Davidson knew that their swing arms on pre-02 FLH's were a real problem on high mileage bikes. want to bet riders died because their rear swing arm broke and the rider went down? Harley will not admit that their was a problem with their pre-02 FLH swing arms because that would open up a flood gate of lawsuits. When looking at the washer if it is at all concaved that is a clear indicator that your swing arm is flexing and it will be only a matter of time as it did on mine, it will crack clean through. Checking the swing arm for cracks is not a bad idea, especially if the washer is at all deformed. Also, if your front brake feels somewhat mushy, I might suggest that you remove the calipers and clean them with a high quality brake cleaner in a spray can. When you first remove the calipers with a 12 point socket as you press the brake lever you will notice that not all of the pistons are working. Keep pumping the lever and spray directly at the pistons. Eventually one side will break free. With a screw driver push the side of pads that broke free back by inserting the screw driver in between the pistons at the back of the brake pad. Force the pads that came out back in, keep pumping and the frozen side will break free as well. Insert a screwdriver in-between the pads to create sufficient space to re-install the caliper on the rotor. Do the same on the other side and once re-installed pump up your brake lever. Remove the left side first, the one furthest from the master cylinder, you won't believe the difference in both performance and brake life.
Gabe
hey guys, id suggest you
hey guys, id suggest you replace the crank position sensor. those go intermittent. its a cheap sensor and a quik fix, i've pushed my bike home a few times before i got mine replaced ... you should be able to see the error code on the dash lights if you now how to find it
darren
My opinion. If there is a
My opinion. If there is a bind in there, yes. RPM's have nothing do with mph, 1st gear 4000rpms 25 mph, 4th gear 4000 rpm 70mph etc, just example. If the sprockets of the cam chain are worn and chain wear due to riding without it being adjusted properly and or oil level and or change intervals = premature wear. When there is wear it can cause binds, meaning stalling. Noises are a indication of wear or lube. You have to try things that narrow the problem down, does speed cause the problem or does rev's cause the problem? It could even be the drive train, it could even be the electronic ignition. Unless I ride it and can feel and hear it, its hard to narrow it down. Need more specifics.
If you're efi could be the
If you're efi could be the pump if not could very well be a slight clog in the tank itself where the fuel feeds into the cutoff valve... If that gets clogged it can cause that just like a clogged tank sock in a car does. You might want to try cleaning out the tank itself. FYI you aren't the only one that has had this problem and if the tank is even slightly clogging it may be time to drain it and make sure it has clear and fast flow.
Regards,
Rev- Steve
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